Which Leather is Best for Motorcycle Leathers?

Posted on 12th March 2009 by JG Mashino in Living,Motorcycle Safety - Tags: , , ,

Are you a motorcycle nut like me? I just seem to leave my cares behind me when I hit the road on my bike! I also love my skin. I have shopped for leather goods before and found many different types. So many that it gets confusing. So when shopping for motorcycle leathers what type of leather is best?

Leather can be made from virtually any animal. Leather from each of these different hides will have different characteristics. The characteristic that is good for one application may not be good for the next. For example you may want soft supple leather for a high fashion garment, but more ridged tougher leather for protective gear.

Sources of different leathers would include, but is not limited to the following:

  1. bison
  2. buffalo
  3. ox
  4. elk
  5. ostrich
  6. sting ray
  7. snake
  8. crocodile
  9. shark
  10. goat

Of this cow, sheep, buffalo and ox are the most common.

Leather Types

Leather is generally sold in these forms.

Full-grain or top-grain leather is the upper most section of the hide. This section contained the epidermis and hair. They have been removed. Full-grain leather has not been altered or corrected to remove imperfections or natural marks on the hide. The leather being left in its natural state will give it the best fiber strength and greater durability. Full-grain leather is the most comfortable because the natural grain has natural breathability. Full-grain leather from 1 – 1.3 mm makes good riding gear.

Naked Leather is only the finest handpicked hides. With naked leather only the hair is removed and there is no sanding to remove imperfections. The epidermis remains. Dye is the only thing added to naked leather. With thickness over 1.3 mils it makes the ultimate riding grade leathers.

Corrected-grain leather is top-grain leather with its imperfections removed. These are removed by sanding, buffing or snuffing the surface to remove imperfects like healed scars, insect bites, or brands. All corrected-grain leather is made of top-grain leather, but once it is corrected it can no longer be called top-grain. Many pigmented leather is corrected-leather because the pigments help hide the corrections. Corrected-grain leather is usually too thin to make good riding gear.

Split leather created from the part of the hide that is left after the top-grain has been separated from the hide. This is a fibrous part of the hide. This operation called splitting separates the hide. In very thick hides you can have several splits. Split leather has an artificial layer applied and is embossed with a leather grain or is used to create suede. Suede is fuzzy on both sides. Split leather is not durable enough to make good riding gear.

Motorcycle leathers should be considered protective gear. When going out for a ride you should leave the fashion statement at home and choose the leather that is going to help protect you. When something unexpected happens you want the right gear protecting you.

You need a leather that will stay between you and the road. These leathers are usually a little stiffer and heavier than some of the fashion leathers, and will take some time to break in. Generally cow and buffalo hide are considered to be the toughest and most abrasion resistant types of leather. Naked leather will give you the best riding gear and be the most expensive. The top-grain leather over 1 mm will give you adequate riding gear for most situations. The corrected-grain or split leathers are not your best choice of leathers for motorcycle leathers.

Ride safe and always wear your safety gear. You never know when it may save you.

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5 Comments »

  1. This post was full of valuable information. Thank you.

    Ride on,
    Torch

    Comment by Torch — March 12, 2009 @ 12:28 pm

  2. Torch
    Glad you liked it.
    Ride safe.
    JG

    Comment by JG Mashino — March 12, 2009 @ 3:08 pm

  3. Wow. I thought leather was leather was leather…. Now I have one more thing to worry about.
    Good post. Thanks.

    Comment by David B — March 13, 2009 @ 8:42 pm

  4. I also didn’t know the difference in grades of leather. I always went by thickness when buying my leather. I learn something new every day.

    Another point that is almost as important as the selection of the leather is proper fit. Many leather and textile jackets and pants these days have armor in them and must stay tight against the body to adequately protect you in a fall. If you take a dive and roll around inside your jacket, those elbow, shoulder and spine guards won’t do a whole lot of good!

    Thanks for another good read JG.

    Comment by Teknikka — March 15, 2009 @ 10:44 am

  5. [...] is a mixture of informative articles such as the most recent page about motorcycle leathers to strange news of a dealership that was a source for not just an oil change but for a shot of [...]

    Pingback by Electra Glide In Blue : Teknikka News — March 15, 2009 @ 11:43 am

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